A Northern girl in Southern Europe in search of an ultimate attitude

Down the stereotypes hole

for English scroll down (after each photo)

Районы Неаполя с самым низким уровнем цен на жилье обычно забиты иммигрантскими магазинами. Индийские, шри-ланкийские, украинские, болгарские и сербские флаги полыхают в витринах. Иногда попадаются и русские, но почему-то это большая редкость.


Thankswriting

*for English scroll down*
 
Несколько дней назад в США был День Благодарения. И хотя я не претендую на звание эксперта в области американских праздников (мой День Благодарения 9 лет назад в Иллинойсе состоял из огромного количества еды, караоке и танцевального концерта от моего полупьяного хост-дяди, которого я с тех пор и не видела), все же мне кажется, что искренне выражать благодарность за что-то – дело совершенно особенное. Мы, со свойственной русским закрытостью, излишнего пафоса в обычном «спасибо» стараемся избегать. Либо, наоборот, под влиянием бесконечной ленты в Инстаграме, низводим добрые слова до подписи под очередным селфи (приукрашивая #motivation #loveyouself). Вот и есть две крайности: либо держать свою признательность при себе, либо обесценить ее, выставляя напоказ в соцсетях. По сути, в любой благодарности не так важно заявить о ней погромче, как понять, что мы так ценим.


October as I saw it

Честно говоря, не люблю фото-спам в Инстаграме во время путешествий. Как не люблю постоянно выкладывать фото задним числом. Каждый день я делаю фотографии и думаю "вот об этом можно много рассказать" или "об этом я обязательно попозже напишу". Но постоянно происходит что-то новое и я не успеваю делать столько публикаций. Поэтому я решила, что буду выдавать ежемесячный фаст-фуд - щелкайте фото как семечки. Возможно, потом получится рассказать о чем-то подробнее или что-то из этого повторится в Инстаграме. Хотя я обманываю себя так на протяжении нескольких лет)

To be honest, I am not the hugest fan of spamming IG feed during travelling. As well as I am not fond of #tbts throughout the year with the pictures of the same place. Every day I take a shot of smth and think to myself "I could tell a lot about it, I should post this too". But new events keep happening on the way and I cannot keep up with this. So I decided to give you a monthly fast-food too in order not to overload my Gallery and in order to give you somewhat of an image snack. Maybe I will be able to tell you later in details about everything or to post some of it on IG. But for now I will just give you a raw October report.


















    

Da Mosca a Forcella

*English readers, please, scroll down*
 
 В свое первое утро в новом доме я проснулась от выкриков за окном: кто-то вещал в громкоговоритель на неаполитанском. В 9:15 в субботу можно было бы подумать, что в центре собирается очередной митинг, но 1) ни один уважающий себя местный не будет протестовать в свой законный выходной (вот в понедельник – пожалуйста!), 2) все увещевания сопровождались веселой музыкой на фоне, что означало только одно: мимо проехал грузовик со свежим сыром. Мне, слышавшей протяжное «МАЛАКООО» за окном последний раз в 90-х в Воронеже, хотелось спрятаться под одеялом и притвориться, что я дома. Но притвориться не получилось, потому что мой новый дом был в Форчелле.

 Форчелла – малюсенький исторический район в Неаполе. Свое название получил от слова «вилка» на местном диалекте, т.к. улицы соединяются в подобие трезубца, если смотреть на район на карте. До недавнего времени Форчелла считалась неблагоприятной (в принципе, как и большая часть города): здесь обитал босс мафиозного клана. В нулевых преступность пошла на спад, босс опомнился, решил круто изменить свою жизнь и сдал всех с потрохами местной полиции. Теперь улицы заполнены разношерстными жителями и туристами, которые хотят поесть в пиццерии из фильма «Ешь, молись, люби». О тяжелом прошлом напоминает лишь табличка, установленная на месте одной из перестрелок. Все терпеливо ее обходят по дороге в супермаркет.


Pack up your bags

 I hate packing. Who loves packing? What kind of person should you be to love packing?

 It all starts with pants. Because it seems easy to go down the jeans road. Not as easy when you are a shopaholic in the past. Out of 35-20-10 pairs you still pick more than you can take. It comes down to squezzing the 6 pairs into the suitcase and leaving 4 other ones laying next to it. Who knows, if you have some extra space, you will take those golden pants too. But you won't. Won't have that space after all.

 Because there are also skirts. Long and shirt, tight and flowy, bright and grey. Of course you take the grey and black ones. You have to squeeze the next year of your life in one damn suitcase. And your airline rules don't let you be creative. No more orange skirt with bright blue necklaces.

 - Take at least those pink pants, - my best friend yawns while layng on my bed and observing the madness around, - you will die without some color, I know you.

- Yeah, well, easy to say - I am grumping to myself inside and look at the book pile I have ready on my table.

 The wardrobe floor is evenly covered with T-shirts. Plain white ones and printed ones. Do I want to wear the "Oh shit it's Monday" phrase every week? Do I want to be that girl who wears kinda ironic shirts all the times and looks sarcastic when she actually just could not put more clothes inside because she also wanted to bring her favorite cup with her? Will people get a different impression of me judging by the amount of things my big red suitcase can fit?

  I kick the pair of Nikes on my way to the kitchen. My best friend peacefully snoring in bedroom. I put the kettle on. I remember how 9 years ago I was a confused 16-year-old packing the same suitcase to go to America for one year. Remember the phrase my classmate Cody told me 6 months after I have arrived "Now you look way better than when you came in September". Duh! Because after months of rummaging through local stores I started looking like all RBHS students there.

 - Actually I do not even care how many shirts I will have with me, - I keep thinking, - I just have to do more things tomorrow before throwing the bag in the trunk of the car... running to my favorite monument to say goodbye, meeting a friend for the last coffee this year, calling my dad. I can just go to bed now and to get up extra-early to get everything done in time. To meet everyone and to have a look around the city.

 I know this feeling too well. I know it is not about shoving one more outfit down my bag. I lived with one small suitcase in Greece for 3 months. Did I wear at least 75% of it? Nope.

 I got used to living like a snail this year. No, not slow and leaving a doubtful substance behind myself all the time, but always having my main stuff with me and living ok with this. If I managed to put one more raincoat into my bag I woud curse after about it while dragging it to the train station. Cursing because of an extra weight and for another reason: I could not put all the people and places that mattered to me in there. Mom being so philosophical about my globe-trotting and stubborness, my favorite coffee shops and baristas that kept remembering and forgetting me while changing work places, my colleagues that also changed while I switched projects, my favorite monument I stopped to pat every time I passed it, my best friends seeing my house as their house, my family, my stepsister, my acquantances... All of them were too much to put in one bag, but I think I aready had them ready inside. Always bringing around with me and adding up new people on the way. Falling in love, finding other friends and getting amazed by the new things. The main suitcase I needed was inside of me all the time: easier to carry around than to leave behind.

I came back to my room at 3 am.
Looked at my sleeping best friend and put the golden pants in the bag. Then laid down next to her and fell asleep.

I will finish packing tomorrow.

This I promise.

How long does the word live?

 *русская версия ниже/ for Russian scroll down*
 Not so long ago my friend (which is a really great culture columnist and a professional critic) and I had a quick chat about how most of the Russian journalism is going fully digital. I am not talking about the obvious iOS or Android versions and subscriptions everyone rambled about years ago. I am talking about how most of the Russian quality content went online while printed media is becoming extinct. The printed content is rarely as good and interesting as it used to be, many famous publishing houses have the restructuration of their staff or concept. Many good old-school journalists are leaving their places because digital media are more open to creativity and professionalism (which may seem as a paradox). In the end, even the hugest printed colossuses are, unfortunately, not as insightful as they used to be. What is left are the glossies which concept is to provide us with great art-like photography but (alas, once again) not the deep or at least somewhat meaningful materials. “Who needs anything insightful in a Cosmo” you’d say? And that’s where I’d disagree with you as the foreign female press is way more serious as ours. It has a lot to offer about female empowerment, education and even politics.